New Jersey
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Story Behind the Shot: Cold rain, good surf
All I can say about this photo is massive thanks to intrepid photographer Steve Miller for standing out in the wind and rain to get the shot! It was a tricky session with light onshore winds and plenty of swell. There were lots of options but few that were makeable–this was one of many that
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Story Behind the Shot: The one that got away..
This was an especially cold and windy day surfing in NJ. Plenty of waves like this came through, but conditions were tricky and it was hard work. Friend and photographer Steve Miller shot photos for a while then got a few video clips—he captured this one of me on a wave that’s going to haunt
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Story Behind the Shot: Big barrels in NJ
This was easily one of the best days of surf I’ve ever had in New Jersey. But like most of the big swells we get here, things were still uncertain just the night before. What I mean is that our sandbars are used to weak windswell and struggle to hold larger, more powerful swells. There
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Story Behind the Shot: Sunny springtime tubes
Same as the last story behind the shot, timing is everything in surfing – timing and patience. I woke up around 6am on this morning and checked all my usual spots. Nothing seemed to be working right. It was smaller than it should have been, the mix of swells was all jumbled up, and the
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Story Behind the Shot: Solid spring south swell
This swell was churned up by the previous day’s storm (and crazy wind) and by 6am on the morning of the 14th, the buoys were reading over 10 feet! The swell was south which is good for most breaks in this area. Low tide was early, around 7:30am. Low tide can also be great around