This swell was churned up by the previous day’s storm (and crazy wind) and by 6am on the morning of the 14th, the buoys were reading over 10 feet! The swell was south which is good for most breaks in this area. Low tide was early, around 7:30am. Low tide can also be great around here, but for some reason early on this morning it just looked dumpy and weird everywhere I looked for the first two hours. Between my usual spots either not breaking, closing out, or just looking pretty damn tricky to surf, I decided to stay on the beach for a bit.
A bit later, almost 3 hours after I left the house on this morning, at a spot I almost never surf, I saw this wave. It was one of the last waves of a real standout set that I somehow witnessed just as I walked up the beach. Call it luck, but it was really just great timing – when it comes to surfing, timing is everything. I came back to the beach right after I shot this and scored fun waves for the next few hours.