Same as the last story behind the shot, timing is everything in surfing – timing and patience.
I woke up around 6am on this morning and checked all my usual spots. Nothing seemed to be working right. It was smaller than it should have been, the mix of swells was all jumbled up, and the tide was wrong. I spent a few hours watching the waves at a bunch of different beaches and ended up going back home to eat breakfast a little after 9am.
By 10am I was back on the beach and the tide had just switched. I felt like the low tide push would help things out, but at first it seemed to be a bust again. I drove around for a while and shot this photo at one of my stops. I didn’t actually surf this spot though and ended up back at the first spot I checked, which was now fully firing! Surfed there for over three hours and got a wicked wetsuit hood tan. It was a good day to say the least.