This swell was was courtesy of one of many lucky storms we got in Hurricane Seasons 2019 – lucky in the sense that we got solid swell but didn’t get steamrolled by the storm itself like so many other places did. The storm was Hurricane Humberto. It produced very solid East swell and by the morning of this day, max buoy readings were around 8-9ft at 12 seconds. Since this was a major storm, forecasters were tracking it for quite a while and as it approached, the forecast certainty was pretty good – we were going to get swell.
Judging by the predicted conditions, I knew there was really only one spot in my area that would be able to handle the energy. Problem was, most other surfers knew this too. I didn’t check anywhere else and drove right to this spot. I pulled up around 8am and shot this photo during my initial surf check. The crowd was surprisingly light at that time, but it wouldn’t stay that way for long. Conditions were definitely best early with the tide and swell size – waves like this were seemingly everywhere for the first couple hours. The swell slowly died over the day with conditions deteriorating as the tide filled in, but overall it was an epic day. I surfed for almost 5 hours.