Story Behind the Shot: April 27, 2019

Full disclosure – I did not take this photo. It’s probably the best photo anyone has ever taken of me while surfing. It was taken by local photographer Tony Costa (@astronautjonesnj). Thank you Tony for the amazing capture and for sending it my way!

The spot where this was taken is probably one of the best, but also one of the most fickle spots in my local area. It needs very specific conditions to work right, but when it’s on it absolutely fires. It’s one of the closest things to a righthand point break we have here. On this day, things lined up just right – the tide was low and buoys showed a 10ft at 9 second south swell the morning of this session. The wind was gusting hard offshore which made for very hollow but somewhat challenging conditions.

I surfed at this spot all morning and actually ran into an old friend, Kyle Latch, out in the lineup. We used to surf together during our college days but he moved away after graduation. It was crazy running into him at one of the old spots! He was helping coach a few surfers with Robbie Nelson, owner and head coach of Pro Surf Coaches (@pro_surf_coaches_official). Robbie is a staple in the water around here and is a good guy, always stoked and always sharing knowledge.

In total there were five of us in the water – shockingly, no other surfers came out despite the amazing conditions. We surfed this spot to ourselves until the wind came up too much and our arms stopped working. Robbie claimed this was the best he’s seen this spot in a few years.

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